Cook Here and Now

San Francisco Farmers Market Watch: May 24th

Buongiorno.
The farmers market was sparsely attended on this Memorial Day weekend. Maybe the gray, drizzling skies persuaded everyone to stay at home for a few rounds on Guitar Hero in preparation for the release of Guitar Hero World Tour ... good, all the more for the rest of us!

What I found this week at the San Francisco Alemany Farmers Market:

I ran into Colleen as soon as I arrived at the market, and after checking out the weather and fruit options, we decided this was a fine day for a cook-off. Strawberry Smackdown! As a challenge, I picked up six pounds of ripe no-spray Miramonte Farms strawberries for jam. But Colleen was undaunted. She made me six jars of the best one I've ever had; the girl knows what she's doing with pectin. I  (easily) convinced Al to join us for lunch, and made pizza with squash blossoms and anchovies and organic arugula to get us started. Then came the obligatory espresso, and oh yes, the jam...

It all started with a watery, deep scarlet soup...

... and proceeded to develop into a rich maroon, the exact shade of the ink I've been mixing for my series of tree drawings: Rootless. I actually pulled out the color-mixing sheet and compared. The last and final swatch I prepared (bottom right: 11.56 am) is dead on. But every color needs a canvas, right?

So I baked a whole wheat and crushed flaxseed bread to go with the jam. A few lashings of butter, a layer of sublime, still-warm strawberry goodness. As Michelle Shocked sings: "If you want the best jam, you've got to make your own."

And in other fruit news: Finally, good apricots. Not quite the Blenheims we'll be getting in July, but good enough to eat by the handful, bake into excellent pies (thanks, Brian, for that one with the fresh vanilla beans), and make excellent jam -- they're unusually rich in pectin. In Rome, we mostly use 2 jam flavors for crostata: apricots or sour cherry,
Here are some recipes from Allrecipes and Epicurious.

Bitter melon leaves are here for those of us who enjoy that astringent, medicinal bitter flavor.
In the proverbial olden days, a paste made of these fermented leaves was used to cure sore-eyed elephants, so who knows what they can do for you? Here are a few recipe ideas.

My favorite blue organic potatoes are here! These can't wait to be braised. It's simple, quick and very satisfying.

One of the hardest cherries to grow is here: Rainier.
These tend to bruise extremely easy if the wind blows them against each other (very noticeable on the pale skin), burst if the rain has been falling more than day, and mature a day earlier for every day above 90 degrees. On top of that, farmers lose on average 1/3 of the crop to birds who, like us, can't resist their sweet, firm and finely-textured flesh. Enjoy them while they're here.

For the first time, I was able to find fresh Garbanzo beans (chickpeas). I bought a bunch to taste and proceeded to spend about half an hour for a puny yield (half a cup). The flavor was very complex, though: a mix of English peas, fresh parsley and a touch of citrus.

The pods contain a bean each, and make a satisfying pop like bubble wrap.

The total yield from the whole bunch was pathetic (about three times this). Very flavorful, though.

I do have to give it up once again for the wonderful organic beets I'm getting. I prepared a Roman dish that's in the Silver Spoon (the Italian cooking Bible). Here's a great explanation of the recipe. And if you haven't read Sara's blog, do. She's painstakingly going through the book, one recipe at a time.

Last but not least, I wanted to show you (count 'em) six varieties of blooming zucchini that are currently available at the market. Try them all, because the flavors and colors vary. Take advantage of the fact we're in California, dammit! The small ones are so sweet, and if you cook the blossoms the day you buy them, they're still flavorful enough to hold their own atop pasta or pizza.

Enjoy!
Marco Flavio

Our CH&N Forum is live!

Buongiorno,
I've completed the setup for our very own Forum. It's not quite like the one from my hometown (see above) but it'll serve us swimmingly! We should use it as a place where we can discuss all aspects of local and seasonal food. When to get what, where, what to do with it.
You'll also be able to ask about the recipes we prepare at the dinners, post your own or simply try to find a ride to one of our events. You can access it by clicking to on the link under Resources, to your right.

To post, you'll have to register. Sorry, it's quick and simple, but to fend off spam I have to do it. Don't worry, I have the privacy settings set not to display the email addresses.

So go there, and start posting. How about some pizza recipes from last Sunday? 

Cook Here and Now Forums

Enjoy!
Marco Flavio

Marco's Farmers Market Watch: May 17th

Buongiorno -- we had a fantastic event yesterday at the San Francisco Baking Institute: such diverse food and so many new faces! Thanks, Brian, for allowing us to cook there. The brick oven (see above) is simply irreplaceable when it comes to pizza.
It was exceptional to be able to repeat the pizza-themed event six months after our last one and rotate the ingredients so completely. Gone were the mushrooms, squash and potatoes, replaced by zucchini, basil, (some) tomatoes, arugula, pea shoots, fava beans, rapini, paneer, gorgonzola and (yes indeed!) cherries. Can't wait for our June cooking event!

What I found this week at the San Francisco Alemany farmers market:

I know some of you are not particularly fond of them, but organic beets are still around.
At our event someone (forgive me, I can't remember who it was... Margo?) made a crowd-pleasing pizza topped with a layer of roasted yellow beets, mozzarella and balsamic vinegar -- one of my personal favorites. If you buy them with the leaves still attached, you're getting two vegetables for the price of one. Cut those greens off and pair them with seasonal fava beans for a wonderful summer soup.
And if you're not incredibly fond of the taste of the tubers, use them as colorful garnishes on your dishes. Because of their highly-saturated strawberry-red hue, they'll offset any green vegetable.
Other beets recipes from Allrecipes or Epicurious.

Ronde de Nice zucchini are very sweet and so easy to stuff. Try this recipe.

Don't miss squash blossoms: they're hard to find away from farmers markets since they last about a day (they wilt fast). Aside from the classic Roman recipe (stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and fried) they're also excellent in risottos or pasta. Just stir-fry an onion in olive oil, add 3 anchovies and let them melt. Add 1 pound of blossoms cut in strips (no pistil, please), 1/2 cup of Sauvignon Blanc and let simmer for 12 minutes, until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Boil the pasta and add it to the blossoms. Top with grated parmigiano reggiano to taste. Serve warm.

Yam leaf is available at the market -- a must in many East Asian recipes and delicious stir-fried. As usual, there is confusion between yam and sweet potatoes. These are actually sweet potato leaves (what we call yams in English are actually sweet potatoes; the yam is a completely different vegetable). Try these recipes from Saveur and Rasa Malaysia.

Dulcis in fundo (latin for that which is sweetest is at the end, or, less literally, the best for last): Cherries are plentiful. Go get 'em!
Andrea made us a pizza with cherry compote, sliced strawberries and walnuts at the end of our run last evening. That was the pizza everyone found that extra compartment in their stomachs for ... strange how that happens.

A presto. Enjoy!
Marco Flavio

Join me for Raj Patel's presentation of his new book: Stuffed and Starved

You've probably had the pleasure of meeting Raj at one our events. Now join me for the Bay Area launch of his terrific new book on food politics and pick up a copy for yourself. I'll be at Stacey's on Tuesday at 12.30, but do go see him at his other Bay Area engagements: he's a riveting speaker.

What:
Stuffed and Starved

“One of the most dazzling books I have read in a very long time. The product of a brilliant mind and a gift to a world hungering for justice.”—Naomi Klein, author of No Logo and The Shock Doctrine

Half the world is malnourished, the other half obese—both symptoms of the corporate food monopoly. To show how a few powerful distributors control the health of the entire world, Raj Patel conducts a global investigation, traveling from the “green deserts” of Brazil and protester-packed streets of South Korea to bankrupt Ugandan coffee farms and barren fields of India. What he uncovers is shocking—the real reasons for famine in Asia and Africa, an epidemic of farmer suicides, and the false choices and conveniences in supermarkets. Yet he also finds hope—in international resistance movements working to create a more democratic, sustainable, and joyful food system.

From seed to store to plate, Stuffed and Starved explains the steps to regain control of the global food economy, stop the exploitation of farmers and consumers, and rebalance global sustenance.

Raj Patel, former policy analyst for Food First, a leading food think tank, is a visiting scholar at the UC Berkeley Center for African Studies. He has written for the Los Angeles Times and the Guardian, and though he has worked for the World Bank, WTO, and the UN, he's also been tear-gassed on four continents protesting them.

Stuffed and Starved site

Stuffed and Starved Facebook group

Availability in other countries:
After having been published in the UK by Portobello Books , in Australia and New Zealand by Black Inc Books, in India by HarperCollins India, in Canada by HarperCollins it's finally arriving in the U.S.

There are also versions in Dutch, published by World Publishers (Uitgeverij De Wereld), in Italian, published by Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Editore, in Korean published by Younglim Cardinal, and in Spanish by Los Libros del Lince.

When and Where:

• Monday May 12, Oakland, CA, 7pm, Great Good Place for Books
• Tuesday May 13, San Francisco, 12:30 pm  Stacey’s Books
• Friday May 16, Berkeley, CA, 7 pm, Cody’s Books
• Wednesday May 21, 7pm, San Francisco, CA,  San Francisco University, a panel discussion sponsored by Global Commons Foundation

See you there!
Marco Flavio

Let's cook and eat together: Sunday May 18th ALL SLOTS FULL

Buongiorno,
Thank you. All our slots are full.
If your name is not listed in the comments section of the previous post, please stay tuned -- we'd love to have you next time. If you wish to be on the waiting list, please leave your email address and name as a comment to this post. I'll contact you if anyone cancels.

Ciao e grazie mille,
Marco Flavio

Let's cook and eat together: Sunday May 18th

Buongiorno.
We're ready for our May spring dinner -- and we've been invited again to cook at the San Francisco Baking Institute! Thanks to Brian for the kind invitation.

We'll be featuring pizzas created with Northern California spring ingredients and baked in the wood-fired oven -- up for the challenge?

Be creative: come up with a recipe that combines seasonal vegetables with Northern California cheeses and meats for your toppings (please use free-range meats). There's a great selection of Northern California mozzarellas and goat cheeses at Rainbow (I often use Calabro's). Prime topping options this time of year include summer squash, spring garlic, asparagus, snap peas, english peas, mushrooms, artichokes, leeks, and basil.

For your reference, here are my posts on thin-crust pizza and pizza Margherita. There was also a great article on SFgate.com about cooking in wood fired ovens last fall. Go take a look.

Anyone not signed up for pizza: gas ovens and 6-8 gas and electric burners will also be available for your creations. Fruit will be cherries.

A presto,
Marco Flavio

The plan
40-45 of us will cook and eat together on May 18th, starting at 2:30 (before you sign up, remember it's the same day as the Bay to Breakers run).

The dinner will be in South San Francisco at the San Francisco Baking Institute.

We're expanding registration to 45 people, and I'm keeping at least 8 spots for newcomers to ensure everyone gets a chance to join us (we usually fill the spots in less than a day).
Every person coming (including any guest you bring) will have to sign up for a slot and either cook something or provide local wine and beer (if beverages slots are available, see below).

Since participation is limited, please let us know at least four days before the dinner if you're not going to be able to make it, so we can invite someone else to join us. Emailing me on shorter notice (or not at all) is unfair to everyone, especially the people who wanted to participate and couldn't because all the slots were taken.

We'll divide the meal plan this way:

6 teams of 2 people will make 3-4 pizzas each (including some vegetarian options) 
5 participants will make main courses for 3-4 people each (including some vegetarian options) 2 SLOTS LEFT
7 participants will make appetizers for 8 people each ALL SLOTS FULL
8 participants will make salads for 8 people each  
8 participants will make dessert for 8-10 people each 1 SLOT LEFT
9 participants will bring at least 2 bottles of good *locally produced* wine and some *locally-brewed* beer. Consider that most cooks spend $25-50 (and up!) just on their ingredients. If you're not cooking, you should be prepared to spend at least this much on beverages, out of respect for your chefs. 1 SLOT LEFT
3 participants will bring non-alcoholic beverages for 20 (sparkling water and juices, locally produced when possible) 2 SLOTS LEFT

Please let me know who is coming by name. Once we reach 45 people confirmed, I will close the event and start another post for the waiting list. If the slots are full for what you'd like to bring, please choose something else instead. (Don't worry: There will always be another event to showcase your skills.)

So post a comment on the blog (do NOT email me directly) under the call-for-participation post letting me know the following:
First and last name
Email address
What you'll be bringing (appetizer, main course, etc.) 
If you brought wine last time, you should now cook something (unless you cooked as part of a couple and made a large entree).

If too many people pick the same course, I'll have to assign a different course to the last entrant.
If the votes are tied for ingredients, I'll flip a coin.

This is going to be great! So sign up before the spaces are gone.

A presto,
Marco Flavio

Marco's Farmers Market Watch: May 3rd

Buongiorno.
I'm finally back in San Francisco and, without hesitation, here's the new Market Watch from the Alemany farmers' market. Thanks for the many requests for it while I was away. Don't worry... here it is.

Many new offerings on the stand that signal the transition away from winter -- yet it's still too soon for stone fruit, except for the few (still uneven) cherries.
There's a myriad of legumes available on the stands. For those of you who shop at the farmers' market, take advantage of the different peas that are now available. Within 3-4 days from their picking they're at their juiciest and sweetest. And don't forget those pea tendrils: a great addition to a light stir-fry. Just wilt them in hot garlic oil and a splash of dry white whine or dry sherry. Spring it is.

Stay tuned: this week the call-for-participation for our event at the San Francisco Baking Institute is going out. The event will be on the 18th (it's also Bay to Breakers, but even runners have to eat... I know I do).

What I found this week:

Organic cherries (see above) are starting to be available. Since many are still rather tart (and rather expensive), try before you buy. And if you can't wait, I can't blame you: they haven't been at the market since mid-July. I missed them too so very much. Recipes from Allrecipes or Epicurious.

Don't be fooled by the appearance of fresh garlic chives, these are not spring onions. Sprinkle them chopped on salads, focaccias, or soups (with a dab of sour cream). Try these recipes from Epicurious.

Finally, favas. The favorite bean of every Roman. Early in the season, when they pods are still small (about 5", and the beans under half-an-inch) they can be eaten without removing the inner skin of each bean. Once they get bigger, in about two weeks, you need to blanch and shell every bean.
A must pair is Roman pecorino cheese with raw beans. A morsel of each.
Try these recipes from Allrecipes or Epicurious.

Sugar snap peas
Some are really good already. Try before you buy.
No need to shell them (but you can) -- just de-string and eat. Stir fry them or eat raw with a nice dressing: the pod is very tender and (hence the name) sweet. Try these recipes from Allrecipes or Epicurious.

English Peas are also readily available. Get them as fresh as possible for that subtle grassy taste of spring. Stir fry them shelled with some white onions and a slice of bacon. The smell in the kitchen alone is worth it.
Recipes from Epicurious and Allrecipes.

Sweet summer Italian basil! I guess everything will be all right after all...
I'll try it for pesto: it tasted promising and was plenty fragrant.